Sunday, October 13, 2013

Laissez les bons temps rouler (Let the good times roll)…

And he looked up, and saw the rich men casting their gifts into the treasury.
And he saw also a certain poor widow casting in thither two mites.
And he said, Of a truth I say unto you, that this 
poor widow hath cast in more than they all:
For all these have of their abundance 
cast in unto the offerings of God: but 
she of her penury hath cast in 
all the living that she had.
Luke 21: 1-4, Bible

New Orleans…the big easy…beignets…chicory coffee…Bourbon Street and the French Quarter full of convention people…a sight the city father’s are grateful for in the devastating wake of hurricane Katrina – seven years in the past and from whose effect the city is still recovering.  The city was warm and humid for October...moreso than I expected.

A different time…
It was 1969 when I came here the first time, while training as an air traffic controller in the military.  It was Mardi Gras and three of us hitchhiked from Biloxi, Mississippi to see this, ah…phenomenon I had heard so much about. 

I had $10.00 in my pocket, and upon arrival, the three of us went straight to the bus station to purchase tickets home on the 11PM bus back to the military base in time for morning formation – it was six bucks.  We put those tickets in a locker, the key in my pocket and headed for Bourbon Street with four dollars in cash next to that locker key.  That night was most interesting and enlightening in the early life of a young fellow who had grown up in the Midwest.  Culture shock would not adequately describe what I saw in the raucous streets of the famous French Quarter.  Whatever I had expected or the pictures I had seen were not preparation enough for that day and evening!

Years later, I would give the first scientific presentation of my career at the Marriott Hotel on Canal Street in that same city, and see for the first time in my life homeless people sleeping on the streets.  It was surreal to be staying in an expensive hotel within a block of folk lying full length next to buildings on the sidewalks.  It is an image that passes through my mind with clarity even as I write this piece.  Over the years, I have come back maybe 10 to 15 times.  New Orleans, with little doubt, has provided me with unique and very memorable experiences. 

The present…
This isn’t the first time I’ve come here this year.  I do a little work for a company based in Orlando, Florida that has put a spine center into one of the larger hospital systems in the city.  I’ve been in a couple of times in the last 12 months, but had no time to ‘taste’ the French Quarter… The convention I attended this week afforded me the opportunity to wander a little once again through Les rues du Quartier Français (streets of the French quarter).

I have been a part of this organization since 1989, which to the present has met north of the border from Vancouver to Toronto and Quebec City.  In this country on the East Coast from Boston to New York and Orlando – to the Western shores of Seattle, San Francisco, and San Diego…stopping annually in between to include Chicago, Colorado Mountain resorts, Austin and Dallas just to name a few.  One might think conference organizers can’t make up their minds, but this is the way many scientific and professional societies have their annual affairs…variety helping to attract attendees.

While each society is unique, most scientific spine meetings are similar with lots of people presenting lots of research papers, while lots of other people listen to them.  In these annual events, one rekindles old friendships, makes new ones in environments that begin early with research papers, focused symposia, and sessions conducive to open discussion, ending with evening events and dinners that often go late.

This year’s meeting was held at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, named for the first African American Mayor of the city, and made famous during the Hurricane by the hordes of people using it to take shelter. It contains approximately 11 million square feet (1.2 million sq. meters) of meeting/exhibit space and covers a length of six tenths of a mile (1km).  The Southeast end of this mammoth building sits near the hotel in which I stayed, and by the time one walked to the other end, they wandered past several restaurants, hotels and slipped under a freeway interchange.  The building is BIG.

After a long day of professional immersion, evenings are filled with society events, dinners and fellowship with colleagues.

A thematic event kicked off the week…
Often there is a rather interesting welcoming reception.  This year, the organizers rented Mardi Gras World, a large warehouse offering a ‘behind the scenes’ look at many floats used in the Mardi Gras Parades.  The place was huge, and after passing a live New Orleans Funeral brass band, one walked down a long corridor packed with larger than life figures of action, fantasy and cartoon characters of every kind.  There were eight-foot tall (2.4m) football players, princesses, kings, monsters, lizards…the amount mind-boggling. 

In the next building there was what appeared to be an outdoor patio with a couple of hundred people sampling food and drink from tables and bars strategically placed around its edges.  Scattered amongst the trees in this area were a lot of small circular, four chair, tables filled with people eating, drinking, laughing and chatting.  The thing, however, is that this garden patio was actually indoors with a very high ceiling.  Its size and structure was so real, it was hard to imagine it was actually inside a building.

After spending a little time with friends, a couple of them sorted out the rest of their evening and headed for a jazz establishment, I had eaten enough, and while the evening was young headed out of the building and back to the hotel…except…except for the distraction out of the corner of my eye that changed the course of my evening.

The unexpected – the singers…
As I exited the building, there was an open sided tent where folk from the society could also sit and chat next to the river.  It was a bit quieter for conversation and it had live entertainment – a live community based gospel choir.

At first I did not know what kind of music this group was performing, so I wandered over just to see.  For the next hour I was captured by 20 or so old south, Jesus praising, God loving, spirit filled, mixed gender/race folk singing their hearts out accompanied only be a small key board, mesmerizing the smallish audience in the open air of that Louisiana ‘clothes clinging humidity’ filled October evening.

I looked at their shoes as they rocked back in forth in song.  On balance, they were old and well worn.  I looked at their trousers which were also well worn and baggy.  I looked at their ages and shapes.  They were older and overweight, suggesting there might be current or impending health issues facing them.  And then I looked at their faces.  To the person they shined as brightly as the morning sun, and as they sang both they and I were transported and transformed by the life they were sharing.  Sometimes I watched as I listened, catching an eye or two leading to a little extra energetic sparkle; sometimes I simply closed my eyes to let the sound of their harmonic voices penetrate my heart and bathe my soul.

At this scientific meeting attended by those most privileged by the trifecta of intellect, education and circumstance, I had NOT expected this.  While I learned much at this meeting, there was nothing more edifying nor enlightening as that group of senior citizen gospel singers filling the night air with a sensibility of meaning that find no words in the paltry vocabulary with which I have to communicate…it was, well…it was simply wonderful.

When they were finished, I went to thank them, and was surrounded by a small group hugging me and thanking me for coming and listening to them.  They were thanking me!!

Wednesday night, on the bank of the Mississippi river in New Orleans, Louisiana; little doubt there was an open display of wealth.  As it turns out, however, it was NOT in the hands of my professional colleagues, but rather in the voices of 20 men and women sharing without reservation the gift of music God had so richly blessed them with.

That evening I experienced the “…widow’s mite...” and while they sang with all their hearts – in the end, they lifted mine.

- ted

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